Tripp Lite APS1250 Inverter / Charger 1250W 12V DC to 120V AC 30A 5-15R 2 Outlet

• 12V DC or 120V AC input; 120V AC output; 2 outlets
• 1250 watts continuous, 1875 watts OverPower and 2500 watts DoubleBoost inverter output
• 2 NEMA 5-15R receptacles
• 3 stage, 30 amp wet/dry cell battery charger
• Reliability enhanced large-transformer design with protected DC wiring terminals

I used to be a big APC fan, but over the years I have had all kinds of problems with them not behaving well after a battery change. They don't even like the batteries purchased from APC.

I wanted something to use with my computers that did not require specific batteries.Tripp Lite APS1250 1250W 12V DC to AC Inverter with Automatic Line-to-Battery 30-Amp Charger

This product worked out great because I just picked up a couple of Marine Deep Cycle Wet batteries (approx $60 ea) used some cables I had around (#2 Battery cables from auto parts store work great) Just get short ones with two eyes for the connections between batteries (wingnut on bolt connections on most deep cycles) and one longer one to cut in 1/2 and use for both connections to the APS.

The APS takes a 5.5mm allen wrench to tighten the connections, I had to cut the plastic around the outlets a little to get my power strip to plug in directly.

A large (8D) battery box will hold up to 3 size 24 batteries, so I am going to pick up one of those this week.

This unit does not have the B series of DIP switches.

This unit also initially charged the batteries at 50A and then dropped down as they took a surface charge.

The transfer to UPS is seamless when unplugging from the wall for testing.

No flicker or anything on any of the computers.

I am running two computers (+LCDS, Drives, etc) one with a 1000W DA1000 SilverStone DA1000 1000W ATX 12V 2.2 and EPS 12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular Active PFC Power Supply Retailthe other with a really old 350W supply.

I also have 5 SATA drives in the desktop.

The desktop really only drew 25A on a bootup on battery which = 300W, the constant draw on the batteries with both systems in active mode is 24A The load also includes UVerse box, 8 port switch, two external drives, usb hub, phones, etc.

Am very pleased to retire my SU1000, my SU700R, and my SU420NET upses as well as the various BK500s in my office for this one, much more efficient unit.

When I do some AC testing for how the unit performs from a generator, I will add to my review.

Buy Tripp Lite APS1250 Inverter / Charger 1250W 12V DC to 120V AC 30A 5-15R 2 Outlet Now

This Tripp Lite 1200 watt inverter/30 watt converter combo is working perfectly. It provides power to the RV entertainment center up to 5 hours a day. It is connected to a12 volt, 220 amp hr battery. The maximum power drawn is 350 watts in this service so this unit is not working hard, but it certainly works well. The converter is in parallel with a 5 amp solar charger and there has been no problems with this connection.

Read Best Reviews of Tripp Lite APS1250 Inverter / Charger 1250W 12V DC to 120V AC 30A 5-15R 2 Outlet Here

I bought one of these to provide uninterrupted power to my computer, internet and a NAS. The device failed less than two months after the 1 year warranty had expired. It no longer charges my batteries and says it's over loaded, even when nothing is plugged in. I now have a 400 dollar boat anchor, not to mention another 400 worth of batteries, cables and the trip-lite remote switch that I bought to go with it.

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I have installed this along with an AGM battery as a power back-up for my sump pump. It had no trouble starting my 1/3rd hp pump. A good feature is the "charge only" mode that allows you to shut the inverter down when not needed (the winter months in my case), thus preserving the battery. It also has a setting for the type of battery being used (wet cell or glass-mat). I bought this unit to replace one from the Inverter Store that failed in less than a year.

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this is a great all-in-one solution for battery-based off-the-grid power. I spent a lot of time researching chargers and inverters and which ones I should combine before I found this, which does both easier and much cheaper for comparable performance.

my only suggestion would be for them to add a couple of fused terminals for direct DC power that could be shut off when the voltage is too low, but we can't have everything I guess.

UPDATE: after about 3 years of light summer usage, this thing up and completely quit on me. no power, nothing. it was nice while it lasted, but far too much to spend on something that is just going to fail after a while.